Wine Cellar Review

French Country Reds

There was a time, not so long ago when wines labelled Vins de Pays (van duh pay-YEE) were little more than simple plonk. In France, they were sometimes even cheaper than bottled water. But things have changed. Since the 1970s, new regulations have been introduced which have dramatically improved the quality of these wines. They’re also subject to local monitoring and tasting, with the result that many Vins de Pays are now reliable and very good quality.

There are six Vin de Pays (“country wine”) regions in France, but the biggest by far is the Languedoc. This is a huge area also known as Languedoc-Roussillon, which lies on the Mediterranean coast, stretching from the French border with Spain to Provence in the east. They make more wine here than the whole of the USA.

The Languedoc is one of the few regions of France where wines can be named after a grape. Many of the producers in the region have been moving towards varietal wines, with good quality Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot becoming increasingly popular. These are the ones to watch. They’re often light, fruity and full of the promise of summer.


Terre des Anges Merlot (red), France. (Villa, Bt. 444)

This Merlot (MAIR-lo) is clearlooking ruby colour with a lovely sweet aroma of strawberries and cherries, but there are other intriguing aromas lurking underneath, usually an indication of a well-crafted wine. The wine is quite light-bodied with 12.5% alcohol and it has an agreeable fruity taste, with a pleasing touch of acid and only a hint of tannin. The long fruity-peppery fnish makes this is very pleasing wine ideal with light food or evening snacks.

It’s a blended wine from different years which comes from the south west of Béziers and it’s a typical good quality Languedoc varietal. Terre des Anges (it means “The Land of Angels”) is absolutely on the mark and excellent value for money. I am sure the angels would enjoy a few swigs of this little number during their interminable harp recitals.

Les Ormes de Cambras Merlot 2008 (red), France. (Friendship, Bt. 469)

Now, here’s another good Merlot to look out for. This bottle has an extra label proclaiming “Cuvée Réservée” which indicates that the makers consider the wine higher quality than usual. The bottle carries an individual serial number too; unusual for a Vin de Pays. The wine is a lovely garnet red. The rich colour gives the impression that the taste is heavy and tannic. But no, it’s very light-bodied, totally dry and crisp. There’s not a great deal of aroma at frst, but if you open the bottle an hour in advance, you’ll notice the soft aroma of dark fruit with touches of spice. The wine has very light tannins and a soft texture with a pleasing dry fnish.

This is a typical Merlot and at just 12.5% alcohol, very easy to drink and probably ideal with light snacks. It would be fne with roast chicken too, if the thought of red wine with white meat doesn’t bother you too much.