Are you an ABC Type?

So what went wrong? In the USA, Chardonnay probably became a victim of its own success. In the 1960’s, wine makers in California started to emulate French Burgundy by importing oak barrels and using the same French approaches to wine-making. But in California, they produced a rich and buttery wine that became increasingly popular over the following twenty years.

By the 1980’s (writes Tim Patterson), “it became all the rage in the US to drink sweet, toasty, buttery, overwhelming Chardonnay”. While many wineries were churning out a commercial, unsubtle version of white Burgundy, others were producing very fine wines that were as good – sometimes better – than their French cousins. Nevertheless, by the late 1990’s, many wine lovers had become bored with Chardonnay and the public taste for these high-alcohol fruitbombs began to fade.

Since then, the trend has been to ferment Chardonnay in stainless steel tanks rather than oak barrels, producing lighter and more refreshing wines. But there are still many dull, bottomend Chardonnays around, which serve only to give new wine-drinkers a bad impression. For those ABC Types who want to give it another chance, fork out the cash and buy a bottle of top quality white Burgundy. It will be expensive. Just remember that if Chardonnay is cheap, it probably isn’t very good.

However, there are plenty of alternatives. Apart from the ever-present Sauvignon Blanc, there are about twenty other well-known grapes used for white wine, among them Riesling, Gewürztraminer, Pinot Gris (or Pinot Grigio) Chenin Blanc, Sémillon and the newly-emerging Viognier. There’s a lot of choice.

Zonin Pinot Grigio 2007 (white), Friuli, Italy. (Best Supermarket, Bt. 600)
Pinot Grigio (PEE-no GREE-jee-o) grapes have thrived in Friuli for generations and their light, fruity wine has become very popular in recent years. This one is a delicate straw colour with a greenish tinge. There’s a zingy refreshing floral aroma of grapefruit with a hint of peaches. Maybe there’s a suggestion of herbs too. The wine has a light, dry and crisp body with a pleasant mouthfeel; the fruit and citrus acidity coming forward. It’s a nicely balanced wine with a good refreshing finish.

I’d prefer to serve this wine with a light first course rather than as an aperitif, because some people might find the taste a bit sharp without food. Cold meats, light chicken salad, sole or oysters would be good matches. Be sure to open the bottle and put it in the fridge an hour before you need it.

Wolf Blass “Yellow Label” Riesling 2007 (white), S. Australia. (Villa, Bt 779)
If your previous encounters with Riesling (REEZ-ling) were with the sweetish mass-produced German Rieslings of the 1960’s and 70’s, prepare for a surprise. Some wine experts consider Riesling - like Chardonnay - to be one of the finest white grapes ever. The super-star Rieslings come from the Mosel and Rhine regions of Germany, but the grape has become a favourite in the New World too, especially California and Australia. Contrary to popular belief, Riesling wines today are completely dry.

In 1961, Wolf Blass migrated from his native Germany to Australia, where he established a new wine business. Today, the company enjoys an international reputation and has won over 3,000 awards for its range of exceptional wines.

This wine is a bright, light gold with hints of green. There’s a delicate and sweetish floral aroma of ripe peaches, oranges and a note of herbs. Stainless steel open fermenters were used to preserve the freshness of the wine and there’s a sensible screw-top closure. The taste is as dry as you like, with a very smooth and silky mouthfeel. There’s also a fair amount of acidity too.

With a long, refreshing citrusy, dry finish, this is a superbly crafted wine. It would be terrific with fish and seafood and would partner the tangy flavors of ginger and lime in Asian dishes. It could match spicy Thai or Indian food too.

Lagarde “Altas Cumbres” Viognier 2008 (white), Argentina. (Wine Connection,Bt. 600)
The Lagarde company was founded in 1897 and is one of the oldest wineries in Argentina. The Viognier (vee-oh- NYAY) grape makes some prestigious wines in the Northern Rhone, but it’s found increasingly in California, Australia and South America, even though it has a reputation for being difficult to grow.

This wine is 100% Viognier and is a stunning, clear gold with a slightly oily appearance: often a good sign. The aroma takes a bit of time to get going, so be patient. Open the bottle an hour before you need it and stick it in the fridge. It’s worth waiting for. There’s an intriguing aroma of dusty flowers, tangerines, apricots and pear drops, with hints of herbs. The dry taste is packed with fruit, the peaches and tangerines very forward and there’s a pleasing acidity that gives the wine body. The mouth-feel is excellent: a silky texture and a tiny prickle on the tongue that adds to the magic. It has a long balanced finish with citrus overtones. And in case you’re wondering, Altas Cumbres means “high peaks”, presumably those of the Andes.

This is an extremely well-crafted wine which oozes sensuality. It’s completely free of oak, having been cool-fermented in stainless steel. It’s a bit heady too at nearly 14% alcohol, but nevertheless would make a superb apéritif. You might try it with salmon or light Thai dishes. But please, please don’t serve this superb wine to inexperienced wine drinkers. It will be wasted on them. In any case, they’d probably prefer the Chardonnay that’s still sitting in the fridge.