Viharnra Sien

A photograph of Viharnra Sien, another Pattaya attraction.

Cost: 50 baht for everyone. Viharnra Sien is something of a hidden treasure.

You will not find it in many tourist books and it is not on the normal list of day-trips on offer.

Despite this modesty, it is not only one of the finest attractions in Pattaya; it’s also one of the finest collections of art in Southeast Asia.

Viharna Sien is a collection of priceless artifacts and the lifetime’s work of one man with a passion for China and Thailand.

Rare paintings, chiselled bronze statues and elegant rooms form this outstanding site.

Sanga Kulkobkiat, the man behind this creation, was born in 1925 in Bangkok. He grew up in China and spent his life devoted to Thai and Chinese cultures.

He created Viharnra Sien to house a lifetime’s collection of art and artifacts. Granted Royal permission in 1987, and His Majesty King Bhumibol Adulyadej opened the seven-rai site a year later. It is thought to be the only collection of its kind outside China. Sanga Kulkobkiat died in 2003 and a large bronze statue now sits by the entrance.

Near the statue, incense sticks burn in front of more statues of princesses, dolphins and wizards.

Inside three Metraiya Buddhas of diminishing size greet the main building visitors. Behind these Buddhas are hundreds of pieces of art that range from the enormous to the precious, creating a sombre but spectacular setting.

To the left are 18 arhats, or disciples of the Buddha. These are found in nearly every Chinese temple, but these ones are rather special. The ones on show here are hand-made terracotta and are the largest ever created. Each arhat’s stands in a particular pose, showing the differing forms of enlightenment.

Near these is a collection of pottery, notable for the exquisite quality. Dating back to the Han, Tang and Shang dynasties, many retain their colour and all retain their style.

Perhaps one of the most interesting facets of this collection is that there are little surprises in every corner. There are the eight paintings of the eight Immortals dating back more than 500 years to the Ming dynasty. On the other hand, there is a Royal throne, tucked away in a corner that once held centre stage in the Beijing Palace. Or opposite this is the first-ever instrument made to locate earthquakes.

There is more to this place than just odd surprises. A terracotta army, which was unearthed in 1974, has lines of miniature soldiers, horses and charioteers in what is one of the only examples of such an army outside of China.

In a reception room to the rear, wonderfully carved teak chairs are lined up around a glorious room, decorated with tapestries of Chinese waterfalls and mountains.

A small opening leads to the two upper floors. On the first is a giant golden statue and colorful Chinese paintings on truly enormous walls.

Step outside and there is the centres zenith. Bronze statues occupy an open-air courtyard, giving a sense of grandeur and magnificence. In the centre stand statues representing Chinese folklore. Behind them, is a group of Shaolin monks, each displaying the forms for which they are legendary? The statues seem to yell and roar as they strike each position, their fists taut and legs stretched.

Next to the Shaolin monks, is a small group of characters, each representing a traditional Chinese way of life? An old man smiles as he pours water into a ladle while two men sit playing chess, one man deep in thought as he considers his next move, his finger wavering over a piece.

Most things here are Chinese, but true to its owners love for Thailand, there is an art room dedicated to more local pieces. String puppets depicting epic Thai tales sit in glass cages, while high on the wall hang paintings showing the story of Thailand’s greatest Kings, from Taksin the Great to Rama V to the current Monarch.

The Thai Royal family, meaning it will remain free from commercial exploitation, now owns the site. It is certainly worthy of such protection, as it houses such an incredible collection of art.

One of the benefits of not being in visitor books is that there are relatively few visitors. Those who do make the effort to find the place will find they are free to wonder in relative tranquility, interrupted only by the occasional monk taking photos with his mobile phone.

Viharnra Sien is a remarkable place and a fitting tribute to a man who spent so many years collecting so much. Pattaya may not be renowned as a cultural hotspot but here there is a place overflowing with art and heritage.